Free Day

Yesterday we got the day off, much needed after a pretty intense week. To celebrate not being tied down to chairs all day, Emily, Jess and I got an early start to the day (though sleeping in for us) and headed out to Bhagsu waterfall around 8:30. The walk up to when you can see the waterfall only takes about 20-25 mins, and it takes you out of the center of town, up the foothills, through an Indian-only outcropping of McLeod Ganj. Once past the Hindu temple and the swimming pool (which is right next door to the temple) you turn the corner and, oh there's the waterfall. By the way, though the swimming pool is open to everyone, we were warned by our homestay moms that its not for women, especially young women. Evidently Indian men don't even attempt to hide their stares, and if you get in the pool, you'll be surrounded in 5 secs. The waterfall from afar was a little disappointing, i think i was expecting much more in the way of trees and green, but its in an area thats pretty barren minus slate (lots of it in the river bed) and some small brown things growing. The walk up, for all my Colorado readers, is a bit like walking Barr Trail without the switchbacks; that steep-ness. Its a footpath thats been well built, the falls are a pretty big touristy thing to do when in Dharamsala. The walk was great, it was nice to feel like we were getting some exercise. Once upon the falls, they were definitely better than from far away. The water is crystal clear. There are some currently closed "cafes" around the base of the waterfall for all the tourists who are now parched after the walk. The cafe consists of a metal roof resting on two barely stable walls backed up against the side of the mountain. Im sure when they're open they barely fit some water, maybe a small fire and the one staff member. But they sure had extensive menus with hot and cold drinks, "tost" (toast/technically grilled sandwiches) and eggs. We did a little meditation at the base of the falls, which were so peaceful, and then decided to be adventurous and head up around the top of the falls. Definitely a good decision. Above the falls lives a man and his 2 dogs, they run the Shiva cafe, which is in (or is) his house. Though not open because its off season, he was still working and the dogs were out. It was so nice to see dogs that are well cared for, clean, have healthly looking coats and figures, and are nice. In Dharamsala, wild dogs are numerous, as both tibetans and hindus refuse to kill them. The ones in town are dirty, not people friendly (besides the few befriended by families who feed them and such) and usually are mangled from fights at night. One of the dogs that hangs out by the school has a huge hole in his hind leg, that just festers. So sad. So the dogs by the falls were a welcome sight. They wanted to be pet, rolled on the backs for belly rubs, and showed us the foot path on the other side of the creek that heads up the foothills. It was too snowy to traverse far, but a hike we will certainly go back to.

On the way up to the falls, we had walked for a way with a monk, who stopped soon after being able to see the falls. On the way back, we noticed him and another monk and three families down by the creek. Upon further inspection, we discovered that they were all washing clothes in the creek. We headed down the ravine for a better look. What a great experience. We ended up just sitting on the rocks for an hour, just watching, enjoying the day and the beauty of where we were. It was fun to see the monks being normal (again, a nice reminder that they are people too, who need to wash clothes too) and the family dynamics were also fun. Everyone pitches in. They bring all their clothes in huge duffle bags, stake out a spot and all work. One family had a mother and child washing shoes and laces and socks and underwear while the father, in a horizontal striped t-shirt and vertical striped underwear (with really nice legs) scrubbed and rinsed outerwear. Once things were clean, they were laid out on the rocks to dry and the family sat and had a picnic and played cards. Laundry is definitely an all day affair. We all remarked that this was how things should be, while life in exile is certainly hard, it doesn't mean its bad as well. We think we are going to head back over our weekend and wash our own clothes in the creek. it certainly will beat doing it in the bucket in hotel tibet.

Random things:
Evidently, Indian women have a big desire to have lighter skin, as skin lighteners are a huge advertising market on TV. A white face is a pretty face. Don't know how well that would fly in the states.
His Holiness the Dalai Lama starts his teachings on Friday, with his telling of some of the Jataka tales on Thursday (which start every teaching year). We are going to the thursday story which is usually followed by an analysis/explanation/whatever you want to call it by the Dalai Lama. The event is simulcasted in English on radio, so you can sit at the Temple and hear the english translation on a radio at the same time.
Because of the teachings, the population of McLeod Ganj has doubled in the last days (at least it feels that way). Monks and nuns from all over come and sleep wherever for the 2 weeks of teachings. Its a great sight to walk the streets with monks and nuns definitely outnumbering lay people.
Tibetan class is moving fast. I still can't say a whole lot beyond my name is... and im from... and i like momos and i dont like butter tea. But the reading is awesome: though its not usually clear what things say, we can walk the streets and sound out the text. so at least i feel cool.